CHANGING THE ENGINE OIL

What you need:

19mm or ¾" socket

Funnel

2 Drain buckets or 1 big one

Oil filter (Motorcraft (Ford) Part number FL-822, Mobil 1 part number M1-106 or M1-110)

5 quarts of oil (Mobil 1 trisynthetic 5w30)

Notes:

If you change to synthetic oil, which is more expensive, ($3.50/quart for synthetic versus $1/quart for non-synthetic) it is not recommended that you change back to regular oil. Walmart sells 6 quarts of Mobil 1 trisynthetic for only $20, so it’s not that big of deal.

Use 5w30 in the summer; and if you live in a colder climate like I do, 0w30 in the winter. The first number stands for the viscosity when the oil is cold. The second number is the viscosity when the oil is at operating temperature. The higher the number, the thicker the oil is. That’s why I use 0w30 in the winter.

You can re-use the same oil filter two or three times, but they are not too much money so I suggest buying a new one every time you change the oil. You need to use a new one if you are switching to synthetic oil.

The engine needs 4.2 quarts, so you may need to buy 5 quarts.

1. Jack up the front of the car

2. Place the drain bucket under the drain bolt

3. Remove the 19mm (3/4") drain bolt

4. Remove the fill cap

5. Wait 5 minutes for all the oil to drain

6. Place another drain bucket under the oil filter or move the big one so it’s under the drain bolt and the oil filter

7. Remove the oil filter

8. Wait 5 minutes for all the oil to drain

9. Clean the mounting surface of the oil filter

10. Apply a thin film of new oil on the rubber gasket on the oil filter

11. Screw the new filter on tightly by hand or with an oil filter wrench

12. Replace the drain bolt

13. Fill the engine with 4 quarts of oil

14. Put about 1 fifth of a quart in so there is about 4.2 quarts in the engine

15. Check the level and add more if required

16. Replace the fill cap

Instructions:

First, jack up the front of the car. For jacking instructions, click here. The drain bolt faces the rear of the car and is located on the passenger side. It is 19mm, but you can use a ¾" socket. Place the drain bucket under or near the drain bolt. If an oil change place or a dealership changed your oil last, the bolt will be on extremely tight. Use a long handle socket wrench or put a pipe on the end of the wrench. Slowly push, don’t hit or jerk the wrench. Once it is loose, make sure the drain bucket is under the drain bolt. Remove the bolt by hand. The oil will probably be hot, so move your hand out of the way quickly, but don’t drop the drain bolt. Remove the fill cap. It’s the black cap with a yellow oil icon on it. This will let the oil out quicker. Wait 5 minutes for all the oil to drain. If oil is still slowly dripping from the drain hole, place another bucket under the oil filter or move the big one so it’s under the oil filter and the drain hole. Unscrew the oil filter. After about 2 turns around, oil will start pouring out and will cover the filter, making it very slippery. This is why I like to use a rubber glove. It could easily slip out of your hands so be careful. The filter will be heavier than it looks, because it is full of oil. So be prepared and don’t drop it. Wait another 5 minutes for all the oil to drain. Clean the mounting surface for the oil filter. Apply a thin film of new oil on the rubber gasket on the oil filter. This will help it slide on the mounting surface so you can get it as tight as possible. Screw the new filter on tightly by hand. You could also use an oil filter wrench. Put the drain bolt back in. Fill the engine with 4 quarts of oil. Add about one fifth of a quart. This will bring the total to about 4.2 quarts.   Take out the yellow dipstick and wipe it off. Stick it back down, and pull it out again. It should be right on the F line. Add more oil if necessary.  Replace the fill cap.   Most oil change places will take your old oil for free.